Home Composting Guide

Why Compost

Composting converts kitchen scraps and yard waste into nutrient-rich soil amendment. Diverts 30-40% of household waste from landfill, reduces need for synthetic fertilizers, and improves soil structure.

The Two Ingredients: Browns and Greens

Composting is about balancing two categories:

Browns (Carbon-Rich)

Dry leaves, cardboard (torn small), newspaper, straw, wood chips, sawdust (untreated only). Provide carbon for microbial energy and air pockets for oxygen flow.

Greens (Nitrogen-Rich)

Fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea bags (remove staples), grass clippings, plant trimmings, crushed eggshells. Provide nitrogen for microbial growth.

The Ratio

3 parts brown to 1 part green by volume (C:N ratio ~25-30:1). Too much green = slimy and smelly. Too much brown = slow decomposition.

Getting Started

Choose a Location

Place on bare soil in partial shade. Direct soil contact lets worms migrate in. Shade prevents summer drying. Choose a convenient location — too far from the kitchen and you won’t use it.

Build the Pile

1. 4-6 inch coarse browns on the bottom for drainage.
2. 2-3 inch layer of greens.
3. 6-8 inch layer of browns.
4. Alternate layers, finish with browns on top (reduces odor, discourages flies).
5. Moisten each layer — target wrung-out sponge dampness.

Minimum Size

Minimum size: 3x3x3 feet (1 cubic yard) to retain heat for efficient decomposition. Smaller piles work but decompose more slowly.

Ongoing Maintenance

Turning

Turn with a pitchfork every 1-2 weeks. Oxygen keeps aerobic bacteria active. Without it, anaerobic bacteria produce foul odors. Move outside material to the center where temperatures peak.

Moisture

Check weekly. Dry: add water while turning. Too wet: mix in dry browns. Overly wet piles become compacted and anaerobic.

Temperature

An active pile feels warm in the center. Peak temperatures (130-160F) kill weed seeds and pathogens. Not heating? Add more greens or moisture.

What Not to Compost

• Meat, fish, bones, dairy. Attract rodents, create strong odors.
• Cooking oils and grease. Block microbial access, slow decomposition.
• Pet waste (dog/cat). Pathogens survive home composting temperatures.
• Diseased plants. Fungal spores and bacteria can reinfect your garden.
• Treated or painted wood. Chemical treatments persist and contaminate soil.
• Weeds gone to seed. Seeds survive unless pile consistently reaches 150F+.

When Is It Done?

Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells like earth — no recognizable materials. Takes 3-6 months with turning, 6-12 months without.

Using Finished Compost

• Garden beds: Work 2-3 inches into the top 6 inches of soil.
• Lawn topdressing: 1/4 inch of screened compost in fall.
• Container plants: Mix 1:3 with potting soil. Pure compost suffocates roots.
• Mulch: 2-3 inches around trees, shrubs, and perennials.